Despite showing on the penultimate day of Paris fashion week, when spirits tend to lag, the Mugler summer collection awoke our senses, radiating a punchy party energy that was impossible to resist.

The thirty-nine-piece collection was brimmed with unabashedly sexy silhouettes, each bold, irreverent and joyful. Featuring sheer tops, structured blazers, tasselled skirts, and feathered body suits, Mugler’s designer Casey Cadwallader stepped on the brand’s motif-filled tightrope, carefully balancing Vegas eroticism, club futurism and Parisian sophistication.

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While previous collections shied away from Thierry Mugler's conceptual ideas, here we saw Cadwallader subtly embrace a marine theme. Models embodied the shapes and forms of octopi and jellyfish, floating down the stark white runway in seven-meter-long chiffon dresses that billowed like amorphous tentacles. The bodysuits, dresses and tuxes were treated with plankton-like laser cuts and glistening sandy sequin shards.

One thing Mugler always gets right is casting. This bombshell ensemble included Paloma Elsesser, Anok Yai, Fan Bingbing, Angela Bassett, Paris Hilton and Helena Christensen, the latter three expanding the parameters of the Mugler Muse. Without gimmicks or concern for honouring trends, Cadwallader’s has retained the brand’s position as inclusive and diverse, celebrating women as heroines—a notable trope of Mugler’s vision.

A favourite of this season’s fashion circuit, the collection was met with riotous applause, solidifying their wonderfully maximalist and notably gregarious reputation.

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