Paloma Wool: Beyond Beauty

Text by Rachel Weinberg

Impressions of beauty constitute our idea of the body. These impressions, often moulded by our surroundings, construct our idealised vision of the physical form. As beliefs of beauty have changed over the last two decades, the standards have responsively expanded and evolved. Visual art and fashion have played a significant role in reinforcing such an evolution. The ideas defined by those crafting have informed not only how we orient in our external environment but how we internally see and construct a personal vision of ourselves. For young people all over the world, Barcelona-based brand Paloma Wool has been instrumental in this process. Since 2014, their offbeat collections have celebrated beauty in its most natural, simplistic, and paired back form. Spearheaded by founder Paloma Lanna, the brand designs fresh, gregarious clothing that is easy for everyone to wear and style.

Over the last eight years, each Paloma Wool piece has recounted a story independent of the industry’s trends and seasons. Elegant and breezy, their Spring/Summer 2023 collection showcased thirty-five-pieces, all celebrating natural beauty standards and minimalistic codes of design. Sauntering slowly down Bertrand Grimont’s Paris gallery, models exhibited a mix of tailored and fluid silhouettes, constructed with either sheer cotton, viscose, or linen-blend material. Highlights from the show included one shoulder tank tops, high-peak cut-out trousers and maxi belts – revised from those seen in Fall/Winter 2022 – tailored ankle-length skirts, mini skorts, shoulder and handbags, as well as ballet-inspired flats and loafers. Most of the pieces were tantalisingly sheer, revealing the model’s figure. The first look for instance, was a translucent black tunic dress with a high slit and rolling train. A shorter rendition followed, this time with a complimentary hood and bag. Other sheer looks comprised of a pale pink t-shirt and dress, gossamer silver bra, bright orange hooded tank, a nude slip dress and a lime green wide-knit poncho. Honouring body expression and confidence, it can be said that the successive theme of transparency further freed the Paloma Wool muse of constricting beauty ideals.

In their collections, Paloma Wool often presents collaborated designs, crafted with local artists or illustrators. For Spring/Summer 2023, photographer, and long-time friend of the brand, Carlota Guerrero opened the show with a provocative performance piece which played across four television screens. The performance saw a group of women reclining and floating in a freestanding wooden bath. Broadcasted from intentionally placed cameras around the gallery, guests could watch the performance from the seated viewing area, peering into the intimate oasis in the neighbouring room. The choice to join forces with Guerrero seems obvious: both the photographer and Paloma Wool create ethereal pieces that celebrate the poised and fluid female form. Like Hannah Wilke or Ana Mendieta, both fuse unidealised imagery of femininity to create a distinctly elemental style.

Besides the four monitors, the absence of decoration in the room accentuated the nude and muted hues from the range. Subdued tones of brown, cream, charcoal, silver, pink, orange, and blue evoked the serene sunsets and sunrises Spain is so well known for. Sports caps, crop tops and camisoles further embodied a midsummer spirit. A fan favourite look featured a ruched beige crop top with square shoulder straps, a matching ankle-length skirt, accessorised with a thin string belt and colour coordinated sandals. For the finale, the models lined up side-by-side against the gallery wall, sporting for the last time their seemingly effortless outfits. They then proceeded to leave the Parisian gallery, prowling down Rue de Montmorency, leaving the audience alone to reflect and mature their ideals of beauty.  

Following the show, Paloma Wool will be exclusively opening a new pop-up in Paris to present their collection from until Sunday October 31st. The goal is to bring the project closer to the local community and create an open space where guests can try on pieces, shop, and receive direct attention from the Barcelona team of stylists and designers.

CREDITS

Paloma Wool Spring/Summer 2023. Styling Georgia Pendlebury. Art Direction Carlota Guerrero. Photographer Camille Mompach. Set Design Samuel Fasse. Dressers student volunteers from IFM Paris

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