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FashionMusicArtCulture

Junya Watanabe’s Avant-Garde Ready to Wear

photography HARRY BURMEISTER
01 October 2023

Junya Watanabe’s summer collection pushed past the confines of conventional wearability, focusing instead on pure artistry. High fabrication counts, extravagant structures and rather impractical silhouettes graced the runway, leaving viewers to question the meaning of ‘ready to wear’ fashion.

Watanabe can afford to produce impractical pieces, for creating artistic work is why consumers choose to engage with the Japanese brand time and time again. His garments aren’t always meant for everyday use; rather they are prized and treasured, blurring the lines between objects and illusions.

Stepping away from frills and pleats, the collection found its strength in geometric forms and structured tailoring. The first fifteen looks were made with rigid black cotton, mesh and nylon, punk in rigour and proportion. Each incorporated triangular, rectangular or diagonal shapes, recalling George Braque’s Man with a Guitar.

With detailed indentations and pattern work, the sleek leather looks were strikingly fierce, protecting the models’ bodies like armour. The last looks were the more approachable and adaptable, concentrating on fluid denim, tailored pants, voluminous tweed jackets and vests that together redefined what thoughtful, innovative and fresh fashion really is.

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