British designers push boundaries, challenge the status quo, and encourage discourse in fashion. Here, Sophie Martin highlights some favourites from their Autumn/Winter 2024 collections.

Molly Goddard

On Saturday afternoon, a western breeze blew through the halls of Cecil Sharp House, where Molly Goddard’s AW24 show took place. Soundtracked to Terry Riley’s 1967 R&B track ‘Your Nogood, ’the collection showcased a softer side to the Cowboy aesthetic, seeing voluminous, abstract silhouettes artfully layered upon each other to create the illusion of garments merging. Goddard’s signature tulle and taffeta dresses were blown up, pulled in, and pushed out, referencing the coveted designs of 1960s Cristobal Balenciaga and Christian Dior gowns. Mary Jane's flats and cowboy boots formed the perfect counterpoint to the collection’s uninhibitedly exaggerated silhouettes. Bold colour blocking in contrasting shades, such as pink and red or black and yellow, was seen throughout the collection, punctuated with flashes of fluorescent oranges and purples. Midi-skirts, in all of their ruffled neon glory, made their mark too. The Molly Goddard girls were sure in their finest.

Simone Rocha

Later, on Saturday evening, Simone Rocha presented her hauntingly beautiful AW24 collection entitled ‘The Wake’. Within the walls of London’s oldest surviving church, St. Bartholomew the Great, we felt an undeniable sense of intimacy as we were all seated within arms-length of the runway model. From this close proximity, onlookers had a clear view of the intricate appliqué of each piece.

The designer's distinctive emotional and theatrical flair pervaded the collection, with heavy embellishments and highly detailed embroidery taking centre stage. The clothes were partially inspired by mourning dresses, and the personal wardrobe of Queen Victoria. Feminine silhouettes, delicate corsetry and sheer fabrics were balanced with voluminous satin styles and a healthy dose of faux fur.

Conner Ives

Stepping into the elegant grand ballroom of the Savoy Hotel on Sunday, New York-born designer Connor Ives unveiled his sultry and sophisticated AW24 collection. Veering away from previous explorations of American female archetypes, Ives presented an ode to the modern-day and inspirational women in his life, whom he lovingly referred to as ‘swans’ in his show notes. “Since the beginning of my career, my work has been platformed, guided and influenced by my swans,” he writes.

Ives' impeccable casting saw the likes of Alex Consani, Alva Claire, Kai-Isiah Jamal, and Precious Lee grace the runway. In a memorable closing moment, Tish Weinstock paraded a sheer, white organza gown hand-embroidered with headphones and cables. She was the bride-to-be!

Susan Fang

Susan Fang transported us to an ethereal, candy-coloured world with her Autumn Winter 2024 collection, titled 'Air Home'. Fang investigated the idea of bringing 'home' with you wherever you go, motivated by the notion that a home can be defined in a multitude of ways.

Central London’s Yeomanry House provided a minimalistic setting for Fang’s dreamy, effervescent creations. The designer's signature organza dresses were showcased in sugary pastel tones, alongside more voluminous down jackets and puffer skirts, which added an element of intrigue and dimension to the otherwise whimsical collection. Unveiled on the runway was a preview of upcoming collaborations with Victoria’s Secret and Nike, showcasing a range of sneakers adorned with hand-crafted floral decorations. 

KNWLS

For KNWLS AW24, creative directors Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault presented their aptly named ‘Sensational’ collection. The collection was imbued with a punkish flair and an “aloof chic” attitude, both of which have become synonymous with the brand's mystique.

One standout piece was a reimagined version of KNWLS’ iconic zip-fastened corsetry in full-grain sea green leather, which was paired with a side-buckled, low-slung skirt. References to 80s power dressing were alluded to through line-backer shoulder wrap coats with plunging necklines and sable cashmere knitwear. KNWLS Fall/Winter 2024 was an energetic and powerful display, cementing the brand's position as a cult favourite in a new era of modern womenswear.

Burberry

On the final evening of LFW, Burberry took to the outdoors in a circus-like tent set up in East London’s Victoria Park. Creative director Daniel Lee drew inspiration from the brand's history of impeccably crafted outdoor garments designed for protection and warmth.

Classic Burberry trenches appeared in moleskin alongside bomber jackets, duffle coats with shearling necklines and knee-length woollen coats with military influences. An earthy palette of khaki greens, tonal browns and navy blues reinforced a sense of nature.

Iconic British models such as Naomi Campbell, Lily Cole, Karen Elson, Lily Donaldson, Edie Campbell, Malaika Firth, Jean Campbell and Neelam Gill were seen on the runway alongside a new wave of English talent, which included Phoebe Philo's daughter, Maya Wigram.