Future Vintage and Instant Classic at Schiaparelli
Daniel Roseberry's Schiaparelli is the high art of haute couture. The question we have all been asking is if it is possible to translate couture into a prêt à porter collection. Well, we need to wonder no longer, because Roseberry has proven it this summer season.
Naming the collection ‘Future Vintage’, Roseberry hopes his garments will be handed down from clients to their daughters, and so forth. The pieces have staying power without compromising their whimsiness and individuality. Roseberry reinvented timeless classics such as knitwear, denim, corsetry, shirt dresses, and tennis polos to accentuate and celebrate the feminine figure, while transforming boxy masculine silhouettes through cropping, textures, and patterns. Roseberry applied a pumped-up zebra print to a Breton-striped body-con maxi spruced up with a contrasting tie waist. The halterneck enjoyed a renaissance alongside avant-garde 1980s shapes, bouncing between sporty, office chic, and hyper-femme, all with a sense of casual cool.
A Meret Oppenheim-referential detail from the previous season made a comeback: the plaited hair necktie. Lock cutouts, thick gold jewellery, and a shift from heeled shoes to flats were among the other accessories.
In the finale, Roseberry incorporated Monet-esque pieces, transforming his models into enchanting woodland nymphs. However, the offering conveys a universal message about cherishing your clothing with the same reverence as art, ensuring generations to come can wear it.
Schiaparelli Spring Summer 2025. Courtesy Schiaparelli
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