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FashionMusicArtCulture

Comfort Calling at Jil Sander  

28 February 2024

Lucie and Luke Meier’s Jil Sander Autumn/Winter 2024 collection was a study in comfort. In Milan’s Castello Sforzesco, models paraded past large gramophone sculptures, enveloped in the ambient and soothing sounds of Benji B and Mk.Gee, with the latter known for his riffs on familiar 1980s ballads. The opening outfit, which saw Mariacarla Boscono in a Chaplinesque slouchy Munsell red trouser and balloon-sleeve, drop shoulder jacket, set a promising tone with this sense of familiarity, or wohnlich, as the Germans might say. This particular sleeve shape recurred throughout the first half of the collection, recalling the reductionist codes of the house. With a focus on pared-back and couture cutting techniques, Jill Sander officially earned the title ‘Queen of Clean’. 

A subsequent series of coordinated separates offered a practical solution to what would constitute daytime dressing. While there was precision and a closeness to the body in these tailored options, other garments were rendered in nubbly, fuzzy and tactile materials. Separates included a skirt suit with a topper, a men’s trouser with a shiny oxblood overcoat; elongated tunics and puffy peacoats. 

Tasselled chainmail, often in the form of headwear and brooches, welcomed the nostalgia of Jil Sander’s Spring/Summer 2012 show under Raf Simons. Just like Meiers’ punctuating accessories, Simon’s collection included small, jewelled diamanté clips that adorned the waist of skirts and dresses.

In the last section of the Autumn/Winter 2024 show, a Plymouth pink overcoat came down the runway, with a long-quilted vest underneath. Quilting was used as a texture in many skirts, gloves and couture coats—one with notable pleats, a rounded neckline and wide kimono sleeves.

The looks that concluded the final portion recalled the comfort and protection of eiderdowns and matelassé coverlets, particularly those in quilted velvet. Thick felted wool and lace, indicative of the material produced in the Lowlands and France, provided a craft element too. Jil Sander’s interest in the domestic space feels relevant. With Europe’s snowiest season since 2010, the promise of comfort is really just what we need. 

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SEE ISSUE #06 HERE. The theme for this issue, Revelations, delves into the unfiltered aspects of life. It’s an appreciation and exploration of raw beauty, where authenticity reigns supreme; the unconventional is not just accepted but celebrated. In a world of manufactured perfection, this issue chooses to validate our quirks and idiosyncrasies. After all, they are what make us inimitable.

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