In the first half of the 20th century, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel famously mused, “People have always wanted to put me in cages: cages with cushions stuffed with promises, gilded cages, cages that I’ve touched looking away from. I never wanted any other than the one I would build myself.” Fittingly, one of her seamstresses reportedly gifted her a birdcage, which she kept in her apartment at 31 rue Cambon, Paris. In 1991, Vanessa Paradis starred in a campaign film for the COCO fragrance centred on this very birdcage motif. In 2020, a birdcage-shaped bag premiered in the Chanel Métiers d’Art runway show. And in 2024, returning to the Grand Palais for the first time since it began undergoing renovation in 2017, CHANEL erected a grand birdcage in the centre of the iconic building. One by one, models passed under the white structure, debuting the Spring Summer collection—the second solely prepared by the creative studio team as the House delays naming Virginie Viard’s replacement for what many consider “fashion’s top job.”

Gentle and feminine, the collection opened with a multitude of airy white looks and included more than the fair share of the sweet, light pastel hues CHANEL does best. Surprisingly, the collection included a significant amount of full black looks—and even leather jackets—for the warmer months. Black pieces included floating chiffon capes, sheer, reflective metallic pieces, and tendril-esque feathers that wafted with the models’ movements. The models soared on mirrored platforms, creating the illusion of hovering through space.

Tweed sets were varied, ranging from mini dresses and cropped jackets to full-length trousers and stately skirts sexied up with long slits. Crochet sung, reminiscent of the seaside vibes from the Metiers d’Art Collection shown in Marseilles earlier this year, and bird motifs could be spotted dangling from earrings and sparkling on chain belts. Crinoline lace midi dresses sheered out at the thighs into skirts evocative of the birdcage watching over it all. Cream and pastel looks, including whimsical trailing gowns and dressed-up denim featured strong contrasting black details in the form of thick leather belts or oversized bows tied at the neck.

While “birds” is a relatively simplistic theme, the historical links were pulled together in a well-crafted, wearable collection. It was all it needed to be—beautiful, true to house codes, substantially sized at 77 looks—to keep the industry sated in the wait for a new CD.

Rounded out nicely with a surprise performance of Prince’s "When Doves Cry" by Elvis Presley's granddaughter and CHANEL Ambassador Riley Keough, the show closed with the actor and singer perched and swinging above the finale lap. I imagine she trailed the sweet scent of COCO with each pass.