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FashionMusicArtCulture

Balenciaga Summer 24

03 October 2023

To the refrains of French actress Isabelle Huppert, who recited instructions for tailoring a jacket, Demna Gvasalia’s summer collection for Balenciaga could be described as his most tender and anecdotal to date.

In the collection, Gvasalia proposed a commitment to innovations in fabric and sourcing and took pause to reflect on what being at the helm of Kering’s fourth biggest brand may constitute for the future. His concerns around sustainability burgeoned with a biker jacket patched with overstock leather pieces and terry-towelling robes doubling as coats—one such robe style was made from a lower-impact leather alternative called LUNAFORM. Eveningwear continued the upcycling theme, with the finale look comprising seven dresses pieced together to create a single wedding dress.

BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 1 ELLA. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 4 LIU WEN. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 5 LINDA. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 6 CATHY. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 9 PALOMA ELSESSER. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 10 DIANE. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 13 ISABEL MACINNES. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 15 YSEULT. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 16 PAUL HAMELINE. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 18 LIONEL. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 19 ANA. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 21 DIWEN WANG. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 23 OLIWIA. Courtesy Balenciaga. Courtesy Balenciaga

For the accessories, stilettos and brogues were occasioned as clutch bags, with wallets taking on the appearance of passports. Oversized shopper totes were strung with charms and tchotchkes slung over the models’ arms.

Gvasalia’s mother, Ella, opened the show (he has often credited her for fostering his love of garments and fashion) wearing an upcycled car coat constructed with three repurposed vintage garments. The running order also featured long-time Balenciaga muse Eliza Douglas, his former fashion tutor Linda Loppa and fashion writers Diane Pernet and Cathy Horyn. The latter wore a navy oversized blazer, which gave the impression of two jackets sewn together with the shoulder collapsing in on itself.

BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 43 MARIUS. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 45 LEOPOLD. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 47 HRISTO. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 53 AKUEI MAKER. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 56 ABDOU. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 60 YURI. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 61 KIM. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 63 LITAY. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 67 SAFFRON. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 69 BIBI. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 71 FRANZISKA BACHOFEN. Courtesy Balenciaga

This idea of ‘collapse’ recurred in many garments, continuing Gvasalia’s interest in the geometry of two-dimensional clothing. This idea was initially explored by Maison Martin Margiela and first premiered in the Spring 1998 collection. Gvasalia describes the apprenticeship at MMM as a sort of master’s programme after leaving his alma mater, the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp.

By engaging (and showcasing) the people who have helped shape his fashion ascendency, Gvasalia has made a point of self-reflection, acknowledgment and personal resonance.

BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 73 GIGI. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 75 JAY PAK
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 77 MARTINA. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 78 TOAN MOREAU. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 80 INTI. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 82 MALGOSIA BELA. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 83 MARIACARLA BOSCONO
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 85 MINTTU. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 86 ELIZA. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 87 AMANDA. Courtesy Balenciaga
BALENCIAGA SUMMER 24 LOOK 88 BFRND. Courtesy Balenciaga
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