At Miu Miu, Salt Looks Like Sugar
On Tuesday, all eyes turned to Miu Miu to see how Miuccia Prada would undo, reimagine, and reshape our vision of truth. This season, Mrs. Prada focused on the very word truth—or rather, the absence of it. She explored the baseless facts and unresolved ideas we cling to and manipulate across arts, culture, and society. Her collection, Salt Looks Like Sugar, was a clever nod to the idea that appearances deceive. Set in the Palais d’Iéna in Paris, the show took place within Goshka Macuga’s installation of the same title, which turned the rotunda into a printing press. Copies of the fictional newspaper The Truthless Times were printed and suspended on rotating racks.
The first look presented was a white cotton midi-dress with lace details along the hem and a ribbon flowing from the chest. The dress was styled with grey tight leg warmers that stopped at the ankle and black leather peep-toe heels. From Look 2, Mrs. Prada and stylist Lotta Volkova began layering pieces, with dainty tanks tiered together, navy knitwear tied around the model's torso, and visible underwear lines peeking through their bottoms. Hyper-femme silhouettes, such as paisley dresses and mesh pinafores, were contrasted with sportier pieces like colour-blocked windbreakers and drawstring hoodies.
Later, cut-out bathing suits were paired with knee-length pleated skirts in two-tone combinations, such as teal and brown and violet and grey. Mixed-metal belts were layered over knee-length skirts, coats, and dresses in wool and silk and wrapped around models' arms. Overcoats and pencil skirts with edgy graphic prints from the 1970s appeared as the show went on, along with big bug-eye sunglasses. Towards the end of the 67 looks, skirts were adorned with floral appliqués, and sequinned dresses reinforced the brand's more maximalist aesthetic.
Amongst the cast of models, actors Hilary Swank, Cara Delevingne, and Eliot Sumner walked the show. Together they, according to the show notes, represented an "alternate vision of imaginary realities." Their deceptive professions mimic the show’s intellectual examination of truth. To conclude the evening, Willem Dafoe made a memorable return to the Miu-Miuverse in a sharp navy trench coat and with grey dress pants.
Miu Miu Spring Summer 2025. Courtesy of Miu Miu
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