Billy De Luca

Unique, Wearable, Stylish. SACAI.

Since 2006, SACAI has been rolling out consistent womenswear collections that are modern and exciting year after year. Since her first womenswear show in Paris in 2011, SACAI’s founder Chitose Abe has cemented herself as an innovator and creative machine. This year was no different. After the beautiful layers, contrasting patterns, and rhythmic stripes of their menswear garments earlier this year, Abe has produced a lineup that reverberates like a collective jaw drop.

The cut and construction of the pieces were at centre stage this morning, emphasising design and proportion, allowing for monochromatic tones with a twist. Line and shadow made exquisite patterns for the keen eyes that sat around the hall. The simple reconstruction of a jacket-now dress demonstrated how depth could create a strong character with a perfect fold. A character with volume and style can feel comfortable and unique even with a fairly subdued colour palette. Hovering in front of the chest, intricately cut strapless coats and cropped blazers filed out. They came out with bursts of purple on coffee brown, vibrant orange lining under green, and box pleated skirts which opened and swayed as legs passed through the stage. Sleeves and pockets emanated from all corners of the garments. Materials and colours changed from front-to-back while pleated pant cuffs and purple plastic raincoats walked by. Layered jackets contrast with immaculate pants that bulged out at the cuff and gathered at the ankle while giving a balanced mass to the look. Abe fuses garments effortlessly as if they were born to be shared. Her elevated tailoring stance was also at play as shirt sleeves blew out at the cuff like bell bottom jeans. Following that, cut open underarm seams gently hugged and released exposed arms like a cape. Then, strapless, double-breasted blazer dresses formed perfect lines over chests, while the last dress replaced the decolletage with bunched white pleats that reached for the neck.

A pronouncement of high-order thinking can be overheard in the cut slits, neat pleats, and fluid garments passing by. This pronouncement is not loud or obnoxious. It is clear, concise and captured in every look that walked. The garments shifted seamlessly through the theatre lights, behind arched windows and a soaked-grey sky. They were caught only in the flashing blinks of two hundred dazzled eyes. The garments are not only fashion at its best but a practical expression of the merging of worlds: the world of day and that of night. This collection makes one not want to change outfits between the two — or ever.