Positioned in a dimly lit overcrowded Paris parking lot, fans and associates flocked in to see Yohji Yamamoto’s S/S24 Pour Homme collection. Slouchy forms and layers appeared in abundance, as the first looks came down the understated white brick runway. The wool gabardine blazers and trousers were injected with sophistication and ease: their long lengths and excess fabric asserted the models’ unassuming, nonchalant stature. 

With a nod to a minimal colour palette, a trend seen among many designers this season, Yamamoto's layering and oversized silhouettes could have appeared dishevelled if not for the meticulous coordination of fabrics from top to bottom in each ensemble. This attention to detail created a sense of unity and elegance throughout the collection. Yamamoto skilfully incorporated a variety of fabrics, including canvas, linen, and leather, into the shoes, ensuring they harmonised with the suit palette and materials, further enhancing the casual yet polished aesthetic.

Presenting wide-leg pants and loosely bound, shapeless jackets, Yamamoto evoked a poised demeanour, reminiscent of an arts school graduate preparing for a meeting on Wall Street—cool, collected, but slightly off-centred.

As the show progressed, the footwear provided an interesting contrast to the abundance of harsh combat-style shoes seen in SS24. While many brands opted for large, thick soles and boot forms, Yamamoto instead crafted thin-soled, slipper-like structures. Embracing the influence of Japanese traditional shoes in Western fashion trends, such as tabi and suicoke slides, Yamamoto showcased a diverse range of footwear. Open-toed designs, patchwork slip-ons, and glossed relaxed leather lace-ups contributed to the leisurely and casual aesthetic of Yamamoto's collection. Meticulously attending to details, each sole and lining presented subtle variations, some offering minimal support while others boasting sturdy vibram backing.

Yamamoto then unveiled eccentric fabrics featuring iconography and renaissance imagery, seamlessly fusing historical European artisan influences with his traditional Japanese wide-sleeved tailoring techniques. This thoughtful interplay between the worlds that inspire him showcased the designer's creativity.

In the fleeting moments of Yamamoto's show, his definitive final looks demonstrated the success of his ongoing endeavour "to make his clothes from the back and not from the front," proving that the soon-to-be 79-year-old designer still possesses a remarkable talent.