April marked more than just another month but a new era for Versace. Dario Vitale stepped into his role as the new Creative Director for Versace, officially closing the chapter on Donatella Versace’s iconic, nearly 30-year tenure. Perhaps even more seismic was the announcement that Prada will acquire Versace from Capri Holdings for €1.25 billion, ushering in a new era for the brand and the landscape of Italian luxury at large.

The acquisition represents a large shift. Versace will retain its creative DNA and identity while benefiting from Prada Group’s consolidated platform of production, retail execution, and operational expertise. As Prada Chairman Patrizio Bertelli put it, this partnership is about “celebrating and reinterpreting [Versace’s] bold and timeless aesthetic” while providing the structure to elevate it further. With these changes, the fashion world looks to Vitale with fresh eyes, not only as a new creative force but as the figurehead of Versace’s next chapter under Prada’s stewardship.

Donatella Versace’s leadership transformed the house into a symbol of glamour, femininity and sensuality. Given this legacy, it seems fitting to reminisce about Donatella's transformative influence and contemplate Vitale's strategies for preserving Versace's position 

When Versace took over the house in 1997, following the murder of her brother Gianni Versace, she was managing the immense grief and the pressure of sustaining what her brother had built. In the years preceding Gianni’s death, Donatella positioned the house with a new cultural relevance, reimagining the clothes and carving out a modern identity for the brand.

From the unforgettable moment Jennifer Lopez wore the jungle dress at the 2000 Grammys, an image so resonant it led to the creation of Google Images, to the consistent use of the Medusa logo as a sign of feminine power, Donatella transformed Versace into a symbol of spectacle and strength. Her 2018 Spring/Summer collection paid tribute to her brother with a reunion of the supermodels of the 1990s, ultimately reinstating the company’s enduring relevance. 

As fashion grapples with the balance between nostalgia and innovation, Vitale’s debut will undoubtedly be watched closely, both as a new era for Versace and a reflection of where luxury fashion itself might be heading next.

What will a post-Donatella Versace look like with Vitale in charge? Vitale has an established design pedigree that positions him as a promising successor. Following his graduation from Istituto Marangoni in 2006, Vitale spent one year at Dsquared2, where he cultivated an affinity for edginess and youth-driven aesthetics through playful collections of jeans and streetwear. In 2007, Vitale joined Bottega Veneta, where he was introduced to the discipline of quality and luxury, grounding his work in technique and refinement. After leaving Bottega Veneta in 2010, he commenced his role as the Design and Image Director at Miu Miu. Here, he explored the nuances of subversive femininity, imbuing garments with a playful, often ironic take on gender and tradition. Over the 15 years Vitale spent at Miu Miu, the brand shifted from playing with girlish sensuality, featuring quantities of lace and fur, into a catalyst fashion house for the preppy, office-siren styles that have flooded the runways in the past few years. Vitale had a crucial role in Miu Miu’s rebrand, as his designs and image direction, which frequently experimented with femininity alongside structured tailoring, furthered Miu Miu’s cultural relevance.

Seeing that 2024 was recorded as one of the Prada Group’s most successful years, with retail sales surging by an impressive 93%, the group’s acquisition of Versace seems strategically timed to capitalise on that momentum. It will be fascinating to see whether Dario Vitale, under Prada’s umbrella, can channel some of the commercial magic that propelled sister brand Miu Miu’s explosive growth into his vision for Versace. As Prada looks to solidify its dominance in the luxury market, all eyes are on how this new chapter at Versace will unfold both creatively and financially.

Vitale’s portfolio exhibits his range and design depth, proving he is capable of both provocation and restraint. Time will tell if he can channel these experiences into a brand that thrives on maximalism, sensuality, and high-octane visual language. Perhaps he will steer the house towards something sleeker and more cerebral or work towards amplifying Versace’s signature codes.

Still, the challenge remains steep. Vitale is stepping into a role personally shaped by Donatella. He’ll need to pay homage to the codes she spent decades developing and refining while introducing a vision that feels unmistakably his own. Vitale’s appointment signals the beginning of a potential reinvention, especially as Versace enters a new chapter with new ownership.