Continuing her ongoing support of women artists, Maria Grazia Chiuri enlisted multidisciplinary artist and competitive archer SAGG Napoli for Dior's summer show. As Napoli reached the crest of the catwalk, she shot an arrow into an eye-shaped bullseye, symbolising Con il cuore in una mano e l’arco nell’altra ('With my heart in one hand and a bow in the other'). Napoli, embodying a modern Diana—the deity of the wild, the hunt, and fertility (perhaps a metaphor for ambition and creativity in today's world)—channeled the Olympic spirit and feminine power that coursed through the collection.

The glass and metal structure in which Napoli stood was decorated with looping texts. Some were lost in translation (‘Avoid to avoid', ‘I am pouring my heart on a shooting Instrumental’ (capitalisation included)), while others were poignant and (pardon the pun) well-aimed, including ‘May the building of a strong mind and a strong body be the greatest work I have ever made.’

Overall, the show referenced the house’s history of athletic wear, but more striking was the adaptation of Christian Dior’s iconic 1950s silhouette. In addition to recuts and reinterpretations of other original 1950s designs, Chiuri drew inspiration from the Amazone dress from Dior's autumn/winter 1951–1952 collection. These references were spotted in the one-shoulder tunics, which were paired with gladiator sandals and styled with braided hair.

Key features of the collection included suiting, cinched waists, and occasional fringing, alongside moto suits and office-appropriate pieces adorned with contrasting racing stripes and chequered flags. Contrast played a crucial role, with the collection dominated by all-black or black-and-white looks, accented by shimmery beige pieces and a single red jacket. Slouchy tracksuits were paired with structured collared blazers for a blend of relaxed and tailored styles.

It was a utilitarian collection, with belts, laced sneakers and jersey material in abundance. To return to the original archery line, the crossbody bag served as the quiver of arrows for today’s woman. According to Chiuri, she is sporty, on-the-go, with a sharp-eyed, no-nonsense approach.

Dior Spring Summer 2025 by Maria Grazia Chiuri