While ‘newness’ is typically the ingredient used to invigorate a long-standing luxury brand, Saint Laurent brews with a blend of consistent sophistication and composure. Anthony Vaccarello, at the helm, personifies this constancy with his ability to delve into the archives and weave subtle threads of the past with the present.

His summer 2024 women’s show unfolded beneath the shadow of Paris' Eiffel Tower. The location was emblematic not only of his resistance to trends or fashion whims but also of the time for which it takes a brand to convey their distinct knowledge of tailoring, structure and detail. In the face of such ardour, each collection is tasked with embodying a sense of freshness, ensuring its garments capture the modern consumer’s attention and are immediately coveted for retail success.

Described as a 'return to foundations’ in the show notes, Vaccarello focused on the Saharien Jacket, an influential piece first introduced in 1967. Wearing various renditions of the jacket in pant, skirt and dress form, models embodied opposing forces of liberty and rigour, masculinity and femininity. Drawing inspiration from French pilot Adrienne Bolland and American aviator Amelia Earhart, they seemed destined for global exploration.

Inspiration was not the emphasis of this collection, though. Much like what transpired in Milan, Vaccarello decided to strip the pieces back, refocusing the narrative from ornamentation and complexity to unadulterated simplicity. This decision was made evident in the loose-fitting mousseline and silk dresses, which departed from the form-fitting silhouettes seen in the past few years. While the aviator gloves perfectly and rather functionally rejected the theatrical opera glove, the gold and bronze jewellery used to accessorise the garments seemed to be a more refined version of the expressive styles of the 1970s.

‘Refined’ is undoubtedly a fitting descriptor for this collection, as are the attributes 'composed', 'simple' and ‘elegant’. While firmly entrenched in the luxury sphere, the collection speaks of a quieter pleasure, so satisfying that it can only be distinguished in the most delicate of whispers.