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FashionMusicArtCulture

Rick Owens Delivers a Hollywood Sequel

27 September 2024

Rick Owens delivered a powerful statement of unity and collaboration when he unveiled his Summer 2025 collection on a range of models, including students and faculty from Parisian fashion schools, OwensCorp team members, and close friends. This show's title, "Hollywood," was a repeat of Owens' debut in June and served as a homecoming tribute to the "weirdos and freaks" that influenced his formative years in a bygone cultural era.

Unlike the previous men’s show, which presented an army of white, the initial looks in the women's collection were in Owens' signature black and featured various textiles, including heavy-duty leather and pom-pom style knitwear. Fitted dresses, gold-embellished tunics, cropped leather jackets, and items with exaggerated horn-like shoulders were among the silhouettes. The infamous platform shoes with a transparent heel or updated versions of last season's Straytukay boots, one of which had a pseudo-orthopaedic design, served as the anchors for each look.

Metallic accents appeared midway through the show, with silver foil and gold embellishments adding a touch of old Hollywood glamour. Owens' affinity for unconventional tailoring was evident throughout, particularly in the acid-green and yellow chiffon capes. Muted grey garments showcased his sharp tailoring techniques, while the use of transparent jersey, airy tulle, and distressed knits demonstrated his mastery of materials. A signature Owens take on denim emerged in skirts with exaggerated trains, highlighting the designer's skill in fabric manipulation and garment structure.

While some models were fitted with black eye contacts, heightening the show's other-worldliness, others wore headwear with layered, arched segments, reminiscent of architectural helmets.

Throughout the show, two models dressed in black, positioned atop the Palais de Tokyo, showered the runway with white rose petals—suggesting a message of hope. This contrast between brutality and grace exemplified Owens' talent for uncovering beauty in the unexpected. The collection felt ceremonial, offering a glimpse into the underworld of Owens' imagination—a 'Hollywood' of his own making.

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