For his debut collection in 1958, Yves Saint Laurent overtly defied the principles he had learned from his mentor, Christian Dior. Instead of replicating Dior’s signature cinched waist, Saint Laurent embraced a more fluid silhouette, using less fabric and a lighter, more liberated application. This revolutionary vision gave birth to the trapeze line, a design that, nearly seven decades later, continues to influence Anthony Vaccarello’s creations. The greatest challenge Vaccarello faces is how to keep this timeless silhouette relevant across each season. By moving the Saint Laurent Women’s Winter 2025 Show to the last night of Paris Fashion Week, rather than its customary position at the beginning, Vaccarello signaled a shift and set the stage for something fresh. 

The opening look rejected prevailing minimalist trends with a strong-shouldered silhouette tapered down to a slim hem in a rich, saturated burnt orange, with a purple sash draped casually at the hip. The voluminous design gradually evolved into sleek skirts of varying hemlines and sheer tights, bypassing trousers entirely. The unexpected burst of fuchsia, midnight blue, and olive green colours in this section injected life into the clothes.

Gold sculpted earrings and satin square-rose pointed pumps emphasised Vaccarello’s attention to symmetry and balance. Notably, there was not a handbag in sight throughout the entire show. Instead, models rested their hands in their pockets—a subtle nod to the Saint Laurent woman’s unspoken ease. Elsewhere, rock crystal jewellery—an echo of Yves Saint Laurent’s rejection of superstition—introduced a mystical, earthy energy to the show. This complemented the unexpected colour pairings of deep purple and turquoise blue and caramel brown. The set, a grand onyx oval, drew attention to the use of blurred floral prints and leopard patterns, coated in silicone.

The aforementioned freshness was most evident in the way Vaccarello transformed the daytime silhouette, which featured an inverted triangle shape that evolved midway through the runway as the models transitioned into eveningwear. Delicate silk and lace camisoles were paired with nine floor-length voluminous ball skirts that bounced with each step. On other models, leather bomber jackets were draped over their shoulders, adding an edge to the soft femininity. Through it all, the purity of line and form was unencumbered by superfluous details. As the show notes explained, “Instead of relying on ornament or padding, the fabrics and precise construction shape the garments. Pure forms and volumes emerge from the cut and construction.”

In the days leading up to the showcase, Vaccarello shared a video on his Instagram featuring iconic Saint Laurent muse and model Amalia Vairelli. In the clip, she is asked, “What is Saint Laurent, a memory of Saint Laurent?” After a brief pause, she smiles and replies, “It’s love, unspoken words, simply love.” That sentiment lingered in the air as Vaccarello brought the show season to a close.