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Phoebe Philo launches her long-awaited namesake fashion brand

Sara Hesikova

The wait is finally over! Phoebe Philo’s eponymous fashion label has officially launched. Hallelujah! After being absent from fashion circles for nearly six years, we, along with fellow Philophiles, finally have something to satisfy the hunger.

Over one hundred pieces of clothing and accessories will be released over three edits and sold exclusively through the brand’s website, which currently only ships to the UK, Europe and US. In a bid for sustainable production, the pieces will be produced in scarce numbers—less than what the company anticipates the demand will be. As far as marketing goes, this is a clever endeavour, creating a sense of urgency that encourages clients to buy quickly. Not that Philo needs much of a marketing push given her loyal following after her nine-year Creative Directorship at Celine.

Despite much anticipation, there was no fashion show or external retailers. There was ‘just’ a drop of seasonless pieces, void of any context other than their A1 and A2 labels (which will identify each collection). There was no explanation of inspiration or mood. Instead, Philo let the clothes speak for themselves.

And what are they saying? They feel like a natural continuation of her work at Celine. As expected, the styles have a pared-back aesthetic with a focus on minimalist silhouettes, tailoring, drapery, material and texture. Trousers are fitted with a zipper in the middle or on the side, unfastening up to the waistband. There is also a lot of play with volume, whether it’s through oversized silhouettes or yeti-like pants and coats. That’s right. Fronts of trousers, trims of asymmetric skirts and mini dresses, and entire coats are adorned with a fur-like effect achieved with hand-combed embroidery on a ribbon base. The vision for shoes is exclusively square-toed, whether platform ankle boots, sculpted courts or classic loafers.

The alluring campaign imagery, some of which is emblazoned with the brand’s bright red logo, welcomes back some familiar faces that were regulars during Philo’s Celine tenure. Daria Werbowy, who graced the campaign of Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci earlier this year, returned for Philo’s launch alongside Daniela Kocianova, Binx Walton and Mica Arganaraz.

As for some of the standout accessories, the ‘Mum’ necklace and matching bracelet take centre stage. And we’re clearly not the only ones thinking this—at the time of writing, the silver version of the necklace was already sold out. Retailing between £5000 and £6000, the oversized, semi-structured Cabas tote is set to be the new ‘It Bag’, following in the footsteps of Celine’s Phantom or Trapeze.

As expected, Philo did not disappoint with her long-anticipated release, and we can’t wait to see what she has in store.

See and shop Phoebe Philo’s debut collection at www.phoebephilo.com

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SEE ISSUE #06 HERE. The theme for this issue, Revelations, delves into the unfiltered aspects of life. It’s an appreciation and exploration of raw beauty, where authenticity reigns supreme; the unconventional is not just accepted but celebrated. In a world of manufactured perfection, this issue chooses to validate our quirks and idiosyncrasies. After all, they are what make us inimitable.

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