Math wasn’t always everyone's favourite subject at school. Some of us even have memories of weeping into the void of a bulky textbook while staring at a page of unidentifiable ratios, geometric theorems and algebraic equations. Max Mara obviously had a different experience. Their Spring Summer 2025 collection chose to play with the mystery and allure of mathematics, tapping into imaginary numbers, artful geometries, and one remarkable mathematical pioneer from ancient history: Hypatia of Alexandria.

A portrait of the fourth century AD mathematician, astronomer and philosopher took pride of place on Max Mara Creative Director Ian Griffiths’ mood board this season, along with other historical female figures whose groundbreaking innovations and developments have shaped the evolution of mathematics and science since ancient times. Hypatia’s advances were unique for a woman of her time, and they inspired the idea of mathematics in motion, which was embodied clearly on the Max Mara runway. Here, equations find form in the shape of collars and sleeve details; angles are technically complex darts and asymmetrical necklines, and Hypatia's work on cutting through cones inspired alluring cutaway shoulder and torso features. 

In fact, mathematics is very much present in the pattern-making and construction process of any tailored garment, and Griffiths accentuates this idea in his latest collection. From innovative new ways to draft a dart to asymmetrical cutting to millimetre-precise drapery that echoes the body’s slightest movement, the collection presents mathematics as a visual language; one based on technical precision, explorations of shape and form, and, in true Max Mara style, sleek silhouettes for the modern woman. 

If Hypatia were alive today, she might be partial to the new shade of cocoa-brown Griffiths has explored this season. There was a story of crisp shirts, broad-shouldered blazers and a column-like dress with contour rib details all created in the colour. If this shade echoes the earthy tones of the Agora (the intellectual hub in Alexandria where Hypatia taught), then the collection’s pristine white, deep ‘delphinium’ blue, and silver nitrate evoke the chemistry labs of future millennia. And ‘camello’ is just that—camel—a signature Max Mara colour that endures from one season to the next. Customary to the house’s explorations into seasonal prints, Summer features an elegant cocoa and white stripe on long-line cardigans and fine knits that declare themselves ‘summer in the city’ staples. So too do crisp panelled shirts, wrapped shirt dresses and, for those who are inclined, micro-shorts. 

And praise crushed silk! A saviour for those jam-packed suitcases and no-iron (or no time to iron) situations, the house introduces a new texture this season that moves effortlessly from daywear to after-hours attire. The collection’s brushed, supple denim hardly feels like denim at all, and a butter-soft floor-length cream trench coat is one of the few leather garments in this collection (albeit an enviable wardrobe staple). Indeed, it’s not Max Mara without cashmere, appearing this season in a small selection of lightweight tailored jackets and coats. 

Whatever golden ratio was used to dream up the shape of the sandal, it was spot on indeed. Ancient Egyptian footwear was reborn with contemporary accents of a blunt square toe and geometric details. Substantial yet refined, these may just be the sandals someone has waited a very long time to find. The collection’s bags range from subtle cross-body styles that can be styled under a blazer or trench coat to a ‘hero’ oversized fold-over with hardware statements that fit all the day’s needs, and maybe even a ruler, a protractor, and a set square, if required. 

We take back what we said as teenagers about math having no relevance beyond the classroom. That was probably just frustration. Max Mara's Spring Summer collection is proof that the mystical world of numbers can inspire limitless forms of visual and conceptual inspiration. We might not like acute angles in a textbook, but we adore them on a shirt collar and a little dart.