For his SS25 Mens collection, Bulgarian designer Kiko Kostadinov focused on healthcare. Referencing clinicians, doctors, researchers, nurses and patients, Kostadinov weaved a subtle tale of longevity and mortality, commenting on a world where health has become inextricable.

The show was held in a stark, featureless space on rue Férou, designed to resemble the anonymous ambience of a hospital. The entirely white setting enhanced the sterile atmosphere, showcasing a collection that played with themes of medical history and futurism.

In looks 5–9, Kostadinov employed lime green to evoke springtime and vitality. These outfits featured high necklines and baggy flaps secured with oblong metal buckles, creating a contrast between limp and sharp textures. Epaulettes and robust, pillow-like headwear, worn like helmets, suggested themes of rest and rejuvenation. More literal designs included scrub-like pants with utility pockets and mismatched layers, reminiscent of a nurse ushering expectant parents to a delivery room.

The subsequent segment of the show addressed the transition from youthful prosperity to the harshness of reality. Kostadinov illustrated this through the use of metallic appliqués that stiffened the joints and made elliptical lapels on blazers resemble tears. These metallic designs were set against monochromatic black and white outfits—the black paired with slicked-back hair and sleek makeup, and the white complemented by soft, pillow-like headwear.

The following part of the show paid tribute to medical workers across all eras—past, present, and future. Models wore mirrored pendants paired with blue tunics that mimicked the shape of surgical gowns, blending the aesthetic of ancient amulets with futuristic ID lanyards. The outfits, inspired by medical researchers, were complemented with wildly tousled hair and bold, tech-infused designs featuring deconstructed cell motifs.

After a visit to the doctors, the next models returned to their everyday activities bearing new Kiko Kostadinov accessories: a sleek white and blue crocodile skin belt bag; a snug maroon and greige messenger bag; and a metallic midnight-blue leather and nylon cross-body bag.

The final segment of the show was more theatrical. Kostadinov, contemplating mortality, actually referred to hospitals as “theatres of birth and death.” There was a full off-white look with sneakers and an elevated track jacket with rouching at the hem and a concealed zipper.

Following this, there were mostly brown clothes with hints of green, where the body finds its roots in nature, and then more all-black outfits, this time with longer starry white stitching. There was also a waist-length jacket with captain-like epaulettes and a long coat with a side zipper. Kostadinov sends off his collection, hinting at a cosmic clinical destination somewhere far in the unknown.