Gucci's Leather Melts in the Sand
Leather in the sand? We mutter, quizzically. It seems so, especially if Gucci says so. For Sabata De Sarno’s Men’s showcase at Milan’s Triennale di Milano, he explored the “encounters”—or incontri as the Italians would say—between the city and the beach, the museum and the ocean. These contrasting environments both invite gatherings of people, foster admiration for something greater or more profound, and reveal attitudes of joy. If there is one thing to commend De Sarno for, it is his joy. His infectious demeanour and welcoming designs have set a new tone for the brand. Observing his first three collections for Gucci, it becomes evident that this ‘welcoming’ spirit is the tightest thread connecting each one.
Surf culture fits neatly into this “less intimidating” social category, embodied by mellow, sun-drenched men and women with relaxed dispositions. This coastal motif was explored through shirts that borrowed the three-pocket design from utility wear. Some shirts were trimmed with beaded fringes, others appliquéd with embroidered flowers. Each featured prints with surfers, dolphins, hibiscus flowers and banana leaves. Jackets in green, pink and yellow evoked the sweet scoops of sorbet on a child’s crumpled cone, ready to melt in the sweltering Italian heat. There were also camp pool boys, imagined parading down the water’s edge in glistening violet polos, short shorts, and buttermilk mesh vests. Hot, hot, hot!
De Sarno also explored ‘encounters’ in a technical sense, examining the interactions between cut and silhouette. Long coats in wool or leather, with high vertical pockets, featured exaggerated openings that revealed the models' long legs and slim backs. There were also striking colour pairings—amber and grey, magenta and brown, periwinkle and merlot, chartreuse green and ebony—that played with the painterly dichotomy of hot and cold.
Our feet were firmly grounded on land in Gucci’s sculptural horsebit boots and loafers, the former being a cross between an ankle boot and a hiking shoe. There were also Gucci cubed sneakers and textured slippers with elasticated bridges. For a collection that drew so heavily from the beach, one might expect a sandal or two. But it seems there will be no toes in the sand for these boys!
With the house facing dwindling sales in the last quarter, an injection of leather goods was essential. For this collection, some pieces drew inspiration from archival valigeria, made from brushed leather and emblazoned with the Gucci logo. Padded leather bags with short handles and silver hardware were both super shiny and super sporty. This is perhaps where De Sarno will discover the perfect encounter—somewhere a little enchanting, a little rugged, a little coastal, a little luxe. He might be close, but still has some way to go.
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