After a whirlwind chapter of high-octane, hyper-sexed Y2K nostalgia under Nicola Brognano, the Blumarine woman has stepped into a new era—one that tempers excess and revives the signature flirty elegance of the brand in the nineties. Enter David Koma, the German-born London-based designer who was named creative director in July 2024. For his debut Fall collection, Koma and his sharp, sensuous aesthetic have ingrained Blumarine with a more contemporary and romantic allure, drawing inspiration from the romanticism of Italian cinema and the dark exoticism of Sicily.

As if walking off the set of a Fellini film, Irina Shayk opened the show in a long black structured wool coat trimmed with fur, exuding an intriguing sensuality that left onlookers wanting more. This old-world aesthetic echoed throughout the collection, with seventies-inspired silhouettes, high-slit pencil skirts paired with cropped fur collared wool coats, a relaxed pantsuit, and an oversized fur scarf, reminiscent of dramatic hostess robes from that era. There were nods to the jabot shirt, seen across lace-adorned fronts, blouses with flowing bow details, and sheer panels cascading from the neckline past the waist. Koma incorporated his own sex-centric brand codes into the collection, as seen in the waist-defining corset jackets, sculptural scuba mini dresses and tailored bustiers.

Romanticism threads arose from the metaphorical black sands of Stromboli: chantilly lace skirts and tops adorned with delicate appliqués at the collar and hips; sheer white plissé chemises and smocked peasant blouses, sometimes bound by leather straps; and pants with floral cutouts and appliqués that added to the ethereal aesthetic. The collection carried a rougher edge with the introduction of a new house flower, the Sicilian thistle, alongside the brand’s signature rose. Thriving in dry, rocky terrain, the thistle is as striking as it is resilient, a fitting emblem for Koma’s reimagined femininity.

This new feminine attitude was reinforced through the accessories: glossy black knee-high lace-up boots, pointed heels, and leather boots studded with butterfly motifs. Exaggerated Sicilian thistles formed belt buckles and bra cups. A bold palette of lipstick in shades of red, black, white, and grey replaced the brand’s signature pastel hues. Looks were also completed with messy hair and smudged black eyeliner. Towards the end of the show, hardware rose embellishments were sewn into dresses and knitwear, their metallic edges punctuating the softness of the fabrics. This interplay of soft textures and sharp details transformed the models into living roses—thorns and all.

The presence of cardigans recognized Blumarine’s origins, for its founder’s family business was rooted in knitwear. This detail reassured us that Koma understands the brand’s legacy and will endeavour to honour its past as much as it strives to shape its future. The Blumarine woman sure is evolving without losing sight of where she came from.