Nicola Di Felice crafted a hot Courrèges summer collection in response to Paris’ grey skies. The collection features stern looks juxtaposed with lighter elements such as fine translucent mesh and floaty satin, perfect for those dreaming of an escape.

The illustrious Mark Borthwick captured the collection presentation, which also celebrated the opening of the brand's second Marais store. With its mix of aristocratic history and a vibrant queer underground scene, Marais is the ideal setting for Courrèges. The new store, featuring high ceilings, arched alcoves and club-inspired spotlights, marries its legacy with post-modernism.

The summer presentation opened with a trail of trench coats designed to shield wearers from the typical Parisian drizzle of the summer season. The looks then unfolded into pieces more suited for the Aegean waters. One standout is a sleeveless navy midi dress adorned with two wave-like strips of fabric, while another is a sheer maxi dress with a darker, scarf-like neckline that mimics a mountain peering out of a glistening seascape.

Planning to spend his holidays hiking coastal trails on the Greek island of Amorgos, Di Felice envisioned himself in vintage sport shorts and scuba sneakers. This inspiration is evident throughout the collection, with belting on the shorts transforming into bands that hitch trousers, cuff ankles, and form a layered waistband resembling a climbing harness. These outdoorsy elements are integrated into otherwise cosmopolitan looks, from a remixed scuba biker jacket with a surf-inspired zipper pull to graphics inspired by hiking trail signs on standout ‘magic square’ mesh tops and scuba-inspired footwear. The footwear, made from soft black stretch leather, is as luxurious as a slipper or boot.

Di Felice prioritised humble, everyday fabrics like cotton, wool, denim, leather and suede. A hint of 1970s dynamics was present alongside this assortment of textiles in black, white, navy, beige, red, and lilac, as seen in items like a navy asymmetrical, one-shoulder dress with a distinctive twist at the shoulder strap that was based on some of André Courrèges' original sketches from the era.

Throughout the collection, Di Felice revisits key ideas from FW24, including juxtaposition, layering, square cuts, and draping. However, he injects fresh ideas into the line with simpler versions of established pieces, like the ‘Friday Bowling’ bag, now featuring a baguette-like volume and a smaller logo.

An array of genderless pieces, such as a one-strap full-piece suit with a torso cut-out, continues Di Felice’s trend of subverting hyper-gendered looks. The result is a collection that is chic, sleek, somewhat summery, and unmistakably Courrèges.

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges

Courrèges SS25. Courtesy of Courrèges