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FashionMusicArtCulture

Chopova Lowena Presents Chuckaboos in the Basement

14 September 2024

Set in the decaying basement of the Old Shoreditch Town Hall, the newest Chopova Lowena collection is a maximalist’s dream closet. Endearingly named ‘Chuckaboo’, this newest iteration of their gothic vision came in pairs of two as a tribute to friendship.

Having based their brand identity on unlikely pairs (outdoor sports and Bulgarian folk clothing), Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena have taken on their newest unusual combination: the Victorian Wild West and 80s rhythmic gymnastics. Models stomped down the runway in trainers and Mary Janes, both were heavily embellished with garden ornaments such as huge metal butterflies and dog collars. The collection, a product of their newest collaboration with Asics, seemed straight out of a Fruits editorial.

Opened by two mirrored looks of metal flower crowns and babydoll dresses as tops over ruffled skirts over pants, the show had many characters in attendance. First came the feral gymnasts in layered looks of sheer bodysuits, ruffled tops, petticoats, star-studded bubble skirts and bedazzled cheerleading bows. Then the Americana figures appeared: pilgrims wearing flower-printed pantyhose, women folk heroes wearing peplum tights, and contemporary advertising women sporting realistic graphics like spaghetti, popcorn, and doll heads. Lastly, sights of good and bad witches, cancan dancers, clowns and dolls were reported as Halloween-esque looks frantically went around the basement-turned-runway.

As eye-catching as the clothing was, the looks would not have been nearly as interesting if it wasn’t for the many accessories used to pull them together. For one, their newest collaboration with Hellman’s gave us the “mommy” bag, equipped with toy cars, Band-Aids, a spoon and an emergency Hellman’s mayonnaise (of course). As out there as it sounds, the bag perfectly blended in a clutter of toy horse necklaces, cutlery in hair and slashed insect wing broaches. 

Chopova Lowena’s Summer 2025 show was as frenetic, eclectic, and at times downright ghoulish as you might expect from a brand built on seemingly haphazard contrast, blessing us with some oddball looks unlikely to be forgotten anytime soon.

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