Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello chose to present Saint Laurent’s Summer collection at the fashion house’s courtyard for the first time since his debut in 2016. In contrast to Vaccarello’s previous collection, which embraced soft tailoring, this season had an emphasis on control and structure. The show opened with a series of oversized, androgynous power suits, bomber jackets, and trench coats—pieces that felt as though they were pulled straight from Saint Laurent’s own wardrobe. The styling—wide ties, sleek leather belts, gold bangles, and heavy eyewear—reinforced this desire for order.

Supermodel Bella Hadid made her long-awaited return to the runway after a two-year hiatus, wearing a slouchy power suit with razor-sharp lapels and wide-legged trousers that balanced softness with precision.

As the looks unfolded, attendees witnessed a departure from the typically severe vision of femininity Vaccarello holds. Signature silhouettes appeared alongside shimmering cropped coats adorned with subtle floral motifs, fluttering blouses paired with ruffled skirts, skintight dresses featuring laced hems, and billowing gowns. Evening wear in rich tones of fuchsia, hot pink, turquoise and mustard yellow flowed around an organic golden structure at the centre of the darkened cobalt blue runway—a nod to the late founder’s deep affection for Morocco.

This homage to Moroccan culture extended beyond the colour palette. Intricate, subtle prints reminiscent of handwoven textiles were blended with fluid, layered silhouettes echoing traditional Moroccan garments. Bold accessories, including oversized Berber-inspired necklaces, bracelets and earrings, enhanced the sense of elegance.

The collection revealed that the Saint Laurent muse is more complex than a typical seductive woman. She is confident, unapologetic, with darker penchants for pleasure.

Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent Spring Summer 2025