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FashionMusicArtCulture

A Lucklustre Affair at Isabel Marant

27 January 2025

In 1994, Isabel Marant launched her brand, creating designs that epitomised the effortlessly chic wardrobe of French women. Over two decades later, in 2017, she expanded into menswear, introducing collections for the cultured French man. However, no collection since has made a significant impact on viewers or buyers.

This season continues that trend, featuring cozy knits and minimalistic pants as the core pieces. The standout accessory, a leather belt adorned with eyelets, felt uninspired, as it’s a design that’s been revisited countless times. While the collection touched on a few French male archetypes, it failed to tell a compelling narrative with resonant pieces. Marant prioritised function over flair, a disappointing outcome from a designer known for her creativity.

On the runway, two models ran across the cobblestone backstreets of Paris in cheetah-print moccasins, leather boots, charcoal knit sweaters and rough twill utility pants. The models transformed into different versions of themselves throughout the show. Boyish ensembles were created with Aztec-patterned jackets and white baggy jeans, and grey-wash double denim was styled over a simple muscle tee and some layered necklaces. The more sophisticated Marant man wore a black tailored pinstripe suit, a sky-grey tucked linen shirt, and a classic black leather Chelsea boot. 

Most looks were an elevated take on workwear—what stood out most was the curved placket on simple utility shirts, turning a classic labourer’s uniform into a day-to-night piece. Muted tones of beige, dusty pink and rust brought life into the otherwise dark colour palette. A down-insulated jacket with an exaggerated shoulder and standing collar brought a sense of the eighties to the modern streetwear styles. Almost every look had a brushed mohair cardigan or sweater, whether it was worn over a jacket, tied at the waist, or sloping off the body with nothing else. 

In a ready-to-wear collection, we can’t expect to be wowed with avant-garde silhouettes or mesmerising colours and patterns every time; however, this collection left me feeling somewhat disappointed. Yes, cable knit sweaters go well with a classic straight leg denim pant, but these looks lacked the edge typically associated with the French label, especially when compared to last year's F/W24 campaign, which featured vibrant bursts of colour and airbrushed floral prints, a trend I greatly admire. The whole collection, while cohesive, was overall lacklustre.

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